Stove and cooktop repair in Pickering
One dead burner turns every dinner into a juggling act, and an element that will not switch off is worth dealing with today. Tell us what yours is doing and a local technician comes out, finds the fault and quotes the repair before replacing anything.
Which one sounds like your cooktop?
Pick the closest match and read what usually causes it.
Something else going on? Describe it on the phone: (289) 802-7279
These four cover most of the cooktop calls we take in Pickering. Open the one that matches yours. If none of them fit, describe it on the phone and we'll tell you what it sounds like.
Cooktops we work on
What usually causes it
How we sort it
The other burners working tells us the supply is fine, so the fault is in that one circuit. We test the element itself, then the switch behind the knob, since those two account for most dead burners. On coil models we also check the receptacle, because a loose element arcs and scorches the contacts, and fitting a new element into a burnt receptacle just kills the new one too.
What usually causes it
How we sort it
Treat this one as urgent. An element that will not switch off is a burn and fire risk, so switch the stove off at the breaker and stop using it until it is looked at. Welded switch contacts are the usual cause and the switch gets replaced rather than cleaned up, because contacts that have welded once will do it again. We then run every zone through its full range to confirm each one cycles properly.
What usually causes it
How we sort it
We start with the things that are not faults at all, because a control lock switched on by accident brings us out more often than you would think. From there we check the panel and its connections, and on knob models we pull the knob to see whether the shaft is stripped. A worn knob or collar is a small part. If the board itself has failed, we tell you what it costs against the value of the stove before ordering anything.
What usually causes it
How we sort it
Stop using a cracked glass top. Spills run straight through a crack onto live wiring underneath, and the crack spreads with every heat cycle. Switch it off at the breaker and call us. Replacement glass is model specific, so we need the model number to price it, and on older stoves the glass sometimes costs more than the stove is worth. We will tell you that plainly rather than ordering it and letting you find out at the end. Knobs and trim are cheap parts and usually a quick swap.
Is your cooktop doing something else?
Book a repair onlineSix parts cause most of the cooktop repairs we do in Pickering. Here is where each one sits and what it does when it fails.
The heating coil under each zone of the glass, or the coil itself on older ranges. It burns through with age, and one zone stays cold while the others work normally.
Linked symptom: one burner won't heatThe switch behind each knob that clicks the element on and off to hold your setting. Its contacts can weld shut, and then the zone stays on full wherever the knob points. If that happens, switch the stove off at the breaker.
Linked symptom: burner stays on or runs too hotWhere the element connects to the stove. On coil ranges this is a plug-in receptacle that scorches when the element sits loose, and a new element plugged into a burnt receptacle soon fails too.
Linked symptom: one burner won't heatTakes the heat and the weight of the pans. A crack from a dropped pot lets spills reach the wiring underneath and grows a little with every heat cycle, so a cracked top should not be used until it is replaced.
Linked symptom: cracked glass topEach knob turns its switch through a small shaft and collar. When the collar strips, the knob spins freely and nothing changes on the cooktop. It is one of the cheapest repairs on a stove.
Linked symptom: knob turns without doing anythingOn touch models, the panel and the board behind it take the place of the knobs. A boil-over that seeps behind the glass, or a power surge, can leave the panel unresponsive. Check the control lock first, since it is often just switched on.
Linked symptom: touch controls not respondingFrom induction tops in Seaton new builds to coil element ranges that came with the house.
Back left zone had been dead since before Christmas and we'd just learned to cook around it. Element had burned out. He had one on the van and it took about half an hour, which made me wish I'd called in January.
Replaced the element myself last year and it died again within weeks. He showed me the receptacle behind it was burnt, which is why. Fixed properly this time.
One zone stopped recognising pans. I assumed induction meant nobody local would touch it. He knew exactly what to test.
Front burner would not switch off, just kept climbing. He told me on the phone to kill the breaker before he even set off, which I thought was decent. Switch had welded shut.
Touch panel had gone completely unresponsive after something boiled over. Cleaned and resealed rather than selling me a whole new board.
Old range, nothing fancy, and he didn't try to talk me into replacing it. Just fixed the burner.
Knob spun freely without changing anything. Collar was stripped. Small part, small bill, sorted in one visit.
Honest about the glass. Said replacement glass for our model would cost more than the cooktop was worth and talked me through what to look for in a new one. He could easily have just ordered it.
Called at eight in the evening not expecting anyone to pick up. Someone did, and we had a visit booked for the next day.
Same zone played up again a few weeks later and they came back under the warranty without charging for the labour.
The things people ask before booking, answered the same way we'd answer them on the phone.
Before we arrive: on a freestanding range the model sticker is usually behind the storage drawer at the bottom or along the oven door frame. On a drop-in cooktop it is underneath, so the installation paperwork is often easier to find than the sticker.
Switch the stove off at the breaker, not just at the knob. An element stuck on full is a burn and fire risk, and the knob is exactly the thing that has stopped working.
Leave anything metal off the surface, keep children and pets out of the kitchen, and call us. Say on the phone that the burner is stuck on, since that moves the job up the queue.
The glass gets replaced, not repaired. Stop using it in the meantime, because spills run through a crack onto live wiring underneath and the crack spreads with every heat cycle.
Replacement glass is model specific and it is one of the pricier parts on a stove. On older ranges it sometimes costs more than the stove is worth, and we will tell you that before ordering anything rather than after.
It depends on the fault. A surface element or a switch is a modest job. A touch control board or replacement glass is not. A phone estimate would be a guess, so the technician diagnoses the stove in your kitchen and gives you the full price before starting. If you go ahead, the visit and diagnosis cost you nothing.
Tell us when you call and we will let you know whether we can take the job. Gas appliance work in Ontario has to be done by a technician holding the right TSSA certification, and we will not stretch that.
If you can smell gas, do not touch any switches. Leave the house and call your gas utility's emergency line before you call anyone about a repair.
Yes. Before booking, it is worth checking the pan: induction only works with magnetic cookware, and a zone that stopped recognising one particular pot is often the pot rather than the stove. If a zone has stopped working with cookware that used to be fine, that is a real fault and we will come and test it.
Stoves are among the longest-lived appliances in the house, often 13 years or more, and the parts that usually fail are elements, switches and knobs. Those are worth fixing at almost any age.
The exceptions are replacement glass and control boards on older models, where the part alone can approach the price of a new range. We will put the numbers side by side and let you decide.
Our labour is covered for 3 months. If the same fault comes back in that time, call us and a technician returns with no labour charge. Keep your invoice, since it shows the repair date. Parts carry whatever warranty the manufacturer provides, and we tell you what that is when we quote.
We answer the phone from 7am to 11pm, weekends included. A burner stuck on or a cracked top goes near the front of the queue. Call (289) 802-7279 and we will tell you the earliest slot one of our 8 technicians has open.
Surface elements, infinite switches, receptacles and knobs for these makes ride with the technician, which is why most cooktop calls end with every burner working the same visit.
What happens next
Burner stuck on, or glass cracked? Switch the stove off at the breaker and ring (289) 802-7279.
Four fields, about a minute. Tell us what the cooktop is doing and we'll take it from there.
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